Mercerised Cotton
Cotton treated under caustic tension to gain lustre, strength and better dye uptake — a finish, not a fibre.
Also known as: Mercerized cotton, Pearl cotton
intermediate Attributed to John Mercer · Discovered by John Mercer, 1844; lustre added by Horace Lowe, 1890
Mercerisation is a finishing treatment in which cotton is held under tension in caustic soda. It swells the fibre, adding sheen, strength, smoothness and much stronger dye affinity.
What it is
Mercerisation is a chemical finish — not a separate fibre — in which cotton yarn or fabric is treated with concentrated sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) under tension, then neutralised. The alkali makes the flat, twisted cotton fibre swell into a rounder, straighter cross-section that reflects light, so the treated cotton gains a soft lustre or sheen, greater tensile strength (roughly 20% or more), a smoother hand, reduced lint, and markedly improved dye uptake giving deeper, brighter, more colourfast shades. The process is named after John Mercer, who discovered the alkali effect in 1844; Horace Lowe's addition of tension in 1890 produced the lustre now associated with it.
Mercerised cotton is used where a refined finish matters — fine shirting, sewing and embroidery thread, polo shirts and premium jersey. Because it holds dye so well and resists shrinkage better than untreated cotton, it is common in quality cotton goods. The finish does not change that the fibre is still cotton, so breathability and comfort are retained.
Worked example
A premium pique polo shirt is often knit from mercerised cotton so the fabric shows a subtle sheen, holds saturated colour and resists shrinking and pilling better than untreated cotton.
How to apply it
Specify mercerised cotton when you want extra sheen, strength, colour depth and smoothness in shirting, polos, thread or premium jersey without leaving natural cotton.
Related entries
Sources & further reading
- Mercerised cotton — Wikipedia contributors (article)