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Dexitex
Fabric

Cotton Poplin

A crisp, tightly woven plain-weave cotton with a smooth, lustrous face — the classic shirting fabric.

Also known as: Broadcloth, Tabinet

beginner Poplin traces to 15th-century Avignon, originally a silk-weft cloth

Cotton poplin is a fine plain-weave fabric with more warp threads than weft, giving a smooth face and subtle horizontal rib. It is the default cloth for dress shirts and blouses.

What it is

Cotton poplin (called broadcloth in the United States) is a plain-weave fabric in which fine warp yarns sit closer together than the slightly heavier weft, producing a faint crosswise rib and a smooth, slightly lustrous surface. Composition is typically 100% cotton, though poly-cotton versions are common for easy care. Typical weight runs about 95–130 GSM for shirting weights, with widths of 140–150 cm.

The tight, balanced weave makes poplin crisp, durable and closely woven enough to hold a pressed edge, which is why it dominates dress shirting, blouses and lightweight dresses. It takes dye and print cleanly. Higher yarn counts (for example 2-ply 100s) give a finer, silkier hand. Poplin wrinkles more than a poly blend and benefits from ironing while slightly damp.

Worked example

A standard men's business shirt is usually cut from 100% cotton poplin around 110–120 GSM in a 2-ply 80s or 100s yarn, balancing crispness with comfort.

How to apply it

Choose poplin when you want a smooth, formal, breathable cloth that presses well; step up the yarn count for a finer hand and step to a poly-cotton blend for lower-maintenance, wrinkle-resistant shirts.

Sources & further reading