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Dexitex
Fabric

Single Jersey

The basic weft-knit fabric — smooth face, looped back, with lengthwise stretch — the T-shirt staple.

Also known as: Plain knit, Stockinette, Jersey knit

beginner

Single jersey is the simplest weft knit, made on a single set of needles. It has a distinct smooth face and looped back, natural stretch, and a tendency to curl at the edges.

What it is

Single jersey is the most basic weft knit, produced on a single needle bed so all loops are drawn to the same side. This gives a smooth V-stitch face and a looped, textured back, easily distinguished from the identical-both-sides look of interlock or rib. It has good widthwise stretch and moderate lengthwise stretch, drapes softly and is lightweight, typically 120–200 GSM in cotton.

Single jersey is the default cloth for T-shirts, base layers and lightweight tops. Its main quirks are that cut edges curl (toward the face at top and bottom, toward the back at the sides) and that a dropped loop can cause a ladder/run. Adding 1–5% elastane improves recovery and shape retention. Combed and ring-spun cotton yarns give a smoother, stronger, less pilling jersey than carded open-end yarns.

Worked example

A standard cotton T-shirt is knit from 140–180 GSM single jersey in combed ring-spun cotton; a fitted tee often adds around 5% elastane for recovery.

Failure mode — when it misleads

Bare cotton single jersey grows and bags at the hem and cuffs over a day's wear because it lacks recovery; elastane or a rib trim solves it.

How to apply it

Use single jersey for T-shirts and lightweight tops; specify combed ring-spun yarn for quality and add a little elastane where shape retention matters.

Sources & further reading