Oxford Cloth
A basketweave cotton shirting with a soft, textured basket face — the classic button-down cloth.
Also known as: Oxford weave, Pinpoint oxford
beginner
Oxford cloth is a plain basketweave shirting where two or more warp yarns cross groups of weft, giving a soft, slightly lustrous, textured surface that is more casual than poplin.
What it is
Oxford cloth is a basketweave variant of the plain weave in which two (or more) warp yarns are woven as one over and under a heavier weft, often with a coloured warp against a white weft that gives it a subtle two-tone look up close. This construction makes it softer, more textured and more breathable than poplin, but a little heavier and less crisp — the reason it reads as smart-casual rather than formal. Weight typically runs 120–150 GSM.
Pinpoint oxford uses finer yarns and a tighter weave for a smoother, dressier finish between plain oxford and poplin, while royal oxford is finer still with a subtle sheen suitable for dress shirts. Oxford's durability and easy hand make it the standard cloth for the button-down collar shirt. It is almost always 100% cotton, sometimes with a small poly content for wrinkle resistance.
How to apply it
Use plain oxford for casual button-down shirts, pinpoint for a versatile smart-casual shirt, and royal oxford when you want an oxford texture in a dressier weight.
Related entries
Sources & further reading
- Oxford (cloth) — Wikipedia contributors (article)