Linen
A cool, strong plant-fibre cloth woven from flax — highly breathable but prone to creasing.
Also known as: Flax cloth
beginner Flax (Linum usitatissimum); among the oldest textile fibres
Linen is a woven fabric made from the bast fibres of the flax plant. It is stronger than cotton, exceptionally breathable and moisture-wicking, with a characteristic slubby texture and tendency to wrinkle.
What it is
Linen is spun from the long bast fibres of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum) and woven, usually in a plain weave. Flax fibre is stronger than cotton and gains strength when wet, and its hollow structure makes linen highly breathable, absorbent and fast-drying — up to about 20% of its weight in moisture before feeling damp — which is why it feels cool and is favoured for hot-weather clothing and bedding. Weight ranges widely, from light ~130 GSM shirtings to heavy 300+ GSM furnishing and upholstery cloth.
Linen's main drawback is that its low elasticity makes it crease readily, part of its relaxed aesthetic but a maintenance consideration. The yarn's natural irregularities give the characteristic slub texture. Linen softens with washing, is prone to some shrinkage, and is often blended with cotton or viscose to reduce creasing and cost.
Failure mode — when it misleads
Linen's poor elastic recovery means sharp creases form at elbows and laps and can become permanent if pressed in; a cotton or viscose blend reduces the creasing.
How to apply it
Choose linen for cool, breathable summer garments and bedding where a relaxed, slightly crumpled look is welcome; blend with cotton if you need less wrinkling.
Related entries
Sources & further reading
- Linen — Wikipedia contributors (article)