Twill Weave
A weave with diagonal ridges, giving a dense, drapey cloth that resists wrinkles and hides soil.
Also known as: Chino cloth, Drill
intermediate
Twill is one of the three basic weaves, recognised by the diagonal wale on its face. It produces durable, softly draping fabrics such as chino, gabardine and drill.
What it is
Twill is one of the three fundamental weaves (alongside plain and satin). The weft passes over one or more warp yarns then under two or more, with the interlacing point shifting one yarn on each successive row to create the characteristic diagonal wale. Notation such as 2/1 or 3/1 describes the over/under pattern. Twills are denser and heavier than plain weaves of the same yarn, drape better, resist wrinkling and hide stains well.
Familiar twill fabrics include chino and drill (both sturdy cotton twills used for trousers and workwear), gabardine (a steep, tightly woven twill), and denim. Cotton chino typically runs about 200–320 GSM. Because one side shows the diagonal more strongly (the warp-faced side), twills have a clear right and wrong face. The weave's structure is why twill garments wear longer than comparable plain-weave cloth.
Worked example
Military-derived chinos use a mercerised 2/1 or 3/1 cotton twill around 250–300 GSM, prized for a smooth face, crease resistance and a soft break over the shoe.
How to apply it
Reach for twill when you need durable trousers, jackets or workwear with good drape and low wrinkling; choose a steeper twill like gabardine for a crisper, more formal face.
Related entries
Sources & further reading
- Textiles — Sara J. Kadolph (book)